STEP 1: INTRODUCE THE CRATE SLOWLY.

First things first, make sure you place the crate in the center of the house, or where the family spends a lot of time. That way your puppy won’t feel like he is being isolated or banished. I find that it’s helpful to put toys or a soft blanket in the crate.

This is when patience comes in. Don’t force your puppy in the crate. Some puppies will naturally be curious and explore the crate right away. If this is not the case for you, I would recommend placing a toy or treat near the crate, depending on whichever your puppy prefers over the other. Gradually place treats closer to the crate, right at the entrance, and finally inside the crate.

At no point during this step should you force the puppy inside the crate or close the crate door. This step may take a few minutes or possibly as long as several days.

STEP 2: FEED YOUR DOG IN THE CRATE.

After your dog is familiar with his crate, place his/her food bowl near the crate. That way, your dog will begin to associate the crate with pleasant experiences. Depending on how fast your dog readily enters the crate at this point, you can start putting the bowl in the crate itself or scatter some food inside. Because animals don’t want to go potty where they eat or sleep, this step also teaches them to hold it. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the food bowl as far as the dog is willing to go, gradually increasing the depth each meal.

Once your dog is comfortable with the crate, you can close the door while your dog is eating so he/she gets used to it. However, especially the first time, make sure that you open the door again as soon as he’s finished. Gradually increase the length of time after the meal is finished before you open the door again, up to 10 minutes. If done right, your dog shouldn’t whine because he/she is used to the crate by now.

However, if your puppy starts to whine to be let out, it’s probably because you’ve increase the time too much. It is better to let him out when he’s still comfortable. Don’t wait until he realizes he wants to be let out and makes a fuss. Remember, it’s important to associate the crate with happy feelings. If your puppy does whine, don’t let him out until he stops or you risk unwillingly teaching him to whine to get what he wants.

STEP 3: LENGTHEN THE CRATING PERIODS.

Because the long-term goal of crating training is for your dog to find peace and security in the crate, you’ll need to get your dog used to the crate while you’re gone. At this point, your dog has experienced the crate positively with family close by. Now you need to begin withdrawing from the room or out of sight while he’s relaxing or playing in his crate (Note: not entirely from the house just yet). Make sure to keep the separation time short initially; As he gets more used to it, you can extend that time.

I find it helpful to start associating the crate with a command, such as “kennel”. The best way to do this is to give a treat and praise him when he enters the crate upon command. Keep your dog entertained in the meantime with a toy or chew, particularly a puzzle. Bored dogs tend to get destructive.

Once your dog will stay quietly (aka not whining) in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can transition into the next step. This might take several days or weeks.

STEP 4: CRATE YOUR DOG WHEN YOU LEAVE OR AT NIGHT.

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Your departures should be short and undramatic— Praise your dog for entering the crate, give him a treat, and then leave quietly. When you get back home, don’t respond to your dog in an enthusiastic way to avoid increasing anxiety for your return.

At night, put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it would be a good idea to put the crate near your bedroom. Often puppies need to go outside in the middle of the night, and you’ll want to close enough to hear your puppy when he whines. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can gradually move it to a more preferable location. Remember, any time spent with your dog is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

“Typically we have found that puppies can “hold it” half the number of hours of weeks old they are. So a 6 week old puppy is going potty every three hours; a 8 week old puppy every 4 hours, a 10 week old puppy every 5 hours, etc.”

POSSIBLE ISSUES TO NOTE:

• Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Don’t leave your dog in the crate too long. A dog that’s crated day and night doesn’t get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. In addition, puppies under six months of age shouldn’t be in a crate for more than 3 or 4 hours at a time, because they can’t hold it for that long.
• Make sure you don’t reward bad behavior. For instance, if your dog whines or cries, it might be due to wanting to be out of the crate, or because he needs to go outside to eliminate. You should never reward whining; Instead, you should wait until he stops. Don’t pound on the crate or yell at your dog to make them stop. Ask the command you use for going outside and if he gets excited, let him out only for that purpose.
• The crate is not a remedy for separation anxiety. The Humane Society of the United States notes “A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.”(1)